Introduction
Here’s a piece of trivia: how many cities in the United States contain a volcano within their city limits? The answer might surprise you. There are only four: Bend, OR; Jackson, MS; Honolulu, HI; and Portland, OR.
Portland, however, isn't just home to one extinct volcano. It boasts several vents from the aptly named Boring Volcanic Field. This geological quirk sparked an idea: could I summit all four volcanos within Portland's main urban area in a single day? I set out yesterday to do just that. The journey would take me from manicured parks to forgotten roads and culminate in a wonderfully weird Portland tradition, an annual event now in its 28th year on the slopes of Mt. Tabor.
Powell Butte Natural Area
My quest began in the far southeastern corner of Portland at the Powell Butte Natural Area. A 30-minute drive out Powell Blvd leads to this expansive 611-acre nature park, a mix of meadowland and forest first purchased by the city in 1925. After a quick drive up the hill, a large parking lot offers space for 60-80 cars.
Inside the visitor center, the beautiful mural in the Intro depicts the view eastward toward Mt. Hood. It serves as a perfect introduction to the landscape we're about to explore.
Once on the trails, visitors will find well-maintained, paved paths that make for easy travel and offer sweeping views of the surrounding hills and valleys.
A recent rain shower had just passed through, leaving a million tiny jewels on the blades of grass and pine needles as the sun began to break through the clouds. The blackberries along the trail were plump and plentiful, and wildflowers added splashes of color to the scenery.
With a full itinerary ahead, I spent about 30 minutes soaking in the peaceful atmosphere before heading to my next destination. I made a mental note to return soon and explore more of its inviting trails.
Kelly Butte Natural Area
A quick 15-minute drive west brought me to the Kelly Butte Natural Area. The arrival was unassuming; there were no signs or grand entrance, just a gate crossing an old, abandoned road. It felt forgotten, a place with secrets.
I had no idea at the time, but subsequent research revealed Kelly Butte’s lively past. This site has served as a rock quarry, a jail, a farm for the county hospital, and even a top-secret, bomb-proof civil defense center as Portland government’s command post in the event of a nuclear war.
All I knew then was that it was a steep walk up the abandoned road. The summit was an unceremonious, flat clearing that looked more like a spot for teenage Saturday night bonfires than a volcanic park.
A little disappointed, I was turning to leave when I spotted a small trail. I followed it along the ridge until it met a wider, tree-lined path, which I walked for ten minutes before it started descending the western slope and I decided to turn back.
During my walk, I came across a couple of encampments, and the isolated feeling was palpable. While I wouldn't necessarily recommend exploring it solo, especially after dark, it offers a quick, shaded hike for those seeking solitude close to the city. Parking is limited to just a few cars at the entrance.
An Unexpected Detour to Eastern Europe
A quest of this magnitude requires fuel. Before tackling the third volcano, I made a pit stop at a place I’d discovered nearby: the Roman Russian Market. The packed parking lot was a promising sign.
The moment I pushed through the front door, with its Cyrillic signage, I was transported. The air was filled with the scent of baked bread and savory meats, and the lively chatter was entirely in Russian. I meandered through the aisles of the bakery, deli, and fresh food sections, amazed by the selection.
Sensing my delighted bewilderment, a kind woman from behind the deli counter asked if I needed help. I told her I was looking for lunch, and she led me to the hot food counter. I chose two rolls of Golubtsi (cabbage stuffed with ground beef and rice) and a side of potatoes. There was no way I was leaving without dessert, so I also selected a slice of rich, dark chocolate layered cake.
In the small adjacent cafe, I sat down and savored the delicious meal. The cake was a masterpiece of balance. It was slightly bitter, which I love, but a hidden layer of what I believe was apricot jam beneath a chocolate tuille provided the perfect counterpoint of sweetness and moisture. I immediately "starred" this market on my map, a delightful portal to another world I will definitely be visiting again.
Rocky Butte Natural Area
Another fifteen-minute drive northwest, and I arrived at my third destination: the 613-foot Rocky Butte Natural Area. This volcanic cone, just minutes from Portland International Airport, offers what might be the most commanding view of the four.
A large, graveled path leads from the parking area to the crown, where a stunning 360-degree panorama unfurls. The view encompasses the entire city, the Columbia River Gorge, and a front-row seat for watching airplanes on their final approach to PDX.
I found a perfect spot on the grass to relax with a cigar, watching the planes glide in. It was a moment of calm contemplation before the final push.
Mount Tabor Park
My final peak, a 15-minute drive south, was the 636-foot Mount Tabor. This is arguably Portland's most famous volcanic park, a 191-acre landmark that has housed the city's beautiful open-water reservoirs since the late 1800’s.
On this particular day, the park was electric. The annual Adult Soapbox Derby was in full swing by the time I arrived, and thousands of people had flocked to its slopes.
After ascending one of the infamous Mount Tabor Staircases that have quite the following, I found a prime spot right against the safety tape lining the downhill racetrack near the finish line and unfolded my chair to watch the "cars" barrel down the hill.
The creativity was astounding—from whimsical, gravity-powered contraptions to sleek, aerodynamic racers, goth mobile racers and public service vehicles.
After a brief intermission featuring a marching band, the final heats began.
The top three racers were all heavy, streamlined vehicles whizzing by at speeds I’d estimate between 30 and 40 miles per hour. The late afternoon sun broke through the clouds, bathing the scene in a perfect 75-degree glow—a quintessential Portland afternoon dedicated to its celebrated weirdness.
Final Thoughts
My urban volcano quest was a journey of contrasts. It took me from the manicured paths of Powell Butte to the forgotten road at Kelly Butte; from the quiet contemplation at Rocky Butte to the joyous chaos of the Soapbox Derby on Mount Tabor. It was a day that perfectly encapsulated the spirit of Portland: a city where serene nature, hidden history, diverse cultures, and unabashed weirdness all coexist.
I got in my 10,000 steps, but more importantly, I explored corners of my own city that were entirely new to me. It's a reminder that adventure is often just around the corner, waiting to be discovered.
Thanks for following me on this journey. If you have suggestions for weird, unique, or historical places around the Great Northwest that you have been to or are wondering about and think I should wander into, please leave a note in the comments!