Introduction
Beyond snagging the occasional free sample while meandering the aisles of Costco, when does one truly get to experience a fine dining meal at a supermarket? If you live in the Portland area, the answer is "often." Zupan’s, a small chain of three family-owned, high-end markets, regularly transforms into a culinary destination. Recently, I had the pleasure of attending one of their signature dinners, and it was an evening that defied all grocery store expectations.
The Setting: A Battle of Burgundian Styles
The Zupan’s in Lake Oswego recently hosted its Legacy Wine Dinner in their charming Breezeway, setting the stage for an extraordinary meal. The evening's premise was a fascinating head-to-head comparison: a premier French brand with a 160-year history, Louis Jadot, pitted against its ambitious protégé, Résonance, a Burgundian-style winery that has made its home here in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Tying it all together was the outstanding culinary work of the supermarket’s Executive Chef, John Eisenhart.
The winemakers themselves were in attendance. Jacques Lardière of Jadot, a legend in the field, sat at one end of the 20-guest table…
… while his protégé, Guillaume Large of Résonance, sat at the other.
I had the good fortune of sitting next to Guillaume, granting me a running commentary on the friendly rivalry throughout the evening. While the competition was good-natured, it was clear Guillaume held deep respect for Jacques, even as he reveled in my praise for his new-world creations.
Reception: Rosé, Rillettes, and Caviar
The festivities began with a stunning Rillette Board of duck and rabbit, accompanied by fresh baguettes, French butter, sea salt, and pickled cherries. This was followed by delicate Potato Blinis topped with Osetra Caviar, crème fraîche, and chives.
This lavish start was paired with a chilled 2023 Louis Jadot Beaujolais Rosé, a crisp counterpoint to the rich appetizers.
First Course: A Tale of Two Chardonnays
Our opening seated course was a decadent Poussin and Truffle Consommé. It was like sipping the most refined French Dip au jus imaginable. It was simple, yet profoundly delightful with its fragrance filling the nose and its umami depth coating the mouth.
This was paired with both the 2022 Résonance Willamette Valley Chardonnay and the 2022 Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses Clos de la Croix de Pierre Chardonnay. The verdict was immediate and decisive. The Résonance easily bested its French counterpart. A theme for the night began to emerge: the Louis Jadot Chardonnay, while technically correct, felt restrained and sharp with acidity. In contrast, the Oregon Chardonnay was vibrant and crisp with a subtle, elegant buttery finish, a world away from the California oak-bombs of the 90s.
I leaned over to Guillaume. "Oregon, one; France, zero," I said. He barely disguised his smile.
Second Course: The Perfect Lyonnaise
Next, a course to make us feel momentarily healthy: a beautiful Frisée Salad with a perfectly poached egg, lardons, and an herb vinaigrette was delivered to the table. The creamy yolk and the rich, savory smokiness of the lardons conspired with the sharp vinaigrette and the bitter frisée to make a perfectly composed, classic salad.
The pairing: the 2022 Résonance Willamette Valley Pinot Noir vs. the 2022 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Pinot Noir. With this first round of red wines I found the French version surprisingly muted. The Oregon Pinot, however, was a revelation, with its flavor and structure as good as any old-vine Zinfandel, with a peppery spice that beautifully complemented the salad. In fact, it was so delicious that I ordered two bottles on the spot, necessitating a happy return trip to Lake Oswego the next day.
"Round two goes to Oregon once again my friend," I informed Guillaume. "It's now two-zero."
Main Event: Tournedos Rossini
As we conversed, a musician in the corner entertained us with melodic Spanish guitar, setting the mood for the main event: Tournedos Rossini.
A petite beef tenderloin topped with foie gras and draped in a truffled Sauce Madère. It was the epitome of classic fine dining executed flawlessly. A glance around the table confirmed it at the end of the course when I saw not a single bite remained on anyone's plate.
This powerful dish was matched with the 2022 Résonance Founder’s Block Yamhill-Carlton District Pinot Noir and the 2021 Louis Jadot Pommard Pinot Noir. The Résonance again proved more flavorful and robust, holding its own against the rich beef and foie gras. While I personally preferred the previous, more versatile Willamette Valley Pinot, the Founder's Block was undeniably the superior wine in this pairing. The scoreboard ticked up: Oregon, three; France, zero.
Dessert: A Sweet Conclusion
To cleanse our taste buds after such richness, the servers presented a spoon of bright Concord Grape Ice.
It was a light, fruity reset before the final course: a tart Cherry Galette with Chantilly cream, all enrobed in a wonderfully flaky crust.
Final Thoughts
My two years living in Oregon have been a continuous discovery of its sophisticated, flavorful, and reasonably priced wines. They easily stand shoulder-to-shoulder with their more famous cousins to the south. This dinner was a compelling testament to that, demonstrating how the new-world energy of Oregon winemaking can outshine even a legendary French legacy. And finally, it proved once again that you can, most definitely, get a luxurious meal in great company at a supermarket.
The evening ended perfectly, with both winemakers leading the guests in a rousing French "thank you" song for the chef and his team. It was a moment of shared joy and a wonderful and gracious note to an unforgettable meal and evening.
